New Year's on Ilha de Mocambique

Eight months ago I took a trip to Ibo Island and wrote a blog post about how enchanting it was, like taking a time machine back to colonial rule and seeing what this country looked like; But, then during that time-traveling escapade, it was also like the war started and ended leaving the island decimated and crumbling in the most beautiful, way.

Well, I did it again.  This time in a different location:  the famous Ilha de Mozambique, which used to be the capital and the primary hub in the region for exporting slaves. Now it’s just a semi-sleepy fishing village full of both restored and crumbling colonial buildings, a whole lot of history, and some really nice beaches.  It’s a lot like Ibo Island’s steroid-taking big brother, with a lot more people, a lot more tourists, and a lot higher prices. Still gorgeous though, and still absolutely unspoiled.

Check out the pictures below:

A 3 mile long, single-lane bridge connects Ilha to the main land.  Ever so often there is a turn off so that car's can get past each other rather than having to turn around.  Even with it, it's a huge pain in the ass. The bridge is cool though! We caught a Boleia with some guy and made the journey across while riding in his truck bed.

Somewhere in the middle of the bridge.

This is a view from the cabana you eat at.  The place we stayed was called Sheninha's and had just opened.  It was run by Sheninha, the youngest looking grandma I'd ever seen.  Her little grand-kids were running around the property playing in the sand with some other kids.  But seriously, this woman didn't look like she was much past 40.

This is what we ate after that picture was taken. Shrimp steamed in something delicious.  I don't know what it was, but it was amazing.

Local demons.

The Central Hospital on Ilha de Mocambique. Once quite a looker.  Now...still impressive, just not as well-kepted.

Ilha.

Ilha ruins.

Stopped to get some beans from this woman on the street.  That sand right next to her also serves as a waterless dish washing station.

Enjoying that street food.

Ilha's public beach where everyone flocks to on weekends to hang out.

After looking at that beach in the picture above, we grabbed some food from this woman's tray.  Fried fish on the right, crabs on the left.  Both delectable and cheap.

This drunk guy made me take a picture of him. Luckily, the scenery was pretty good too.

For Becca.  Always appreciating the sketchy alley.

The Fort on the Northern tip of the island dominates.  This was the primary export hub for slaves from the main land.  They were taken here, locked away, and then sold.  After the sale, they were sorted into new jail cells according to the location they were being shipped.  Of the names we saw written on some of the cells, I thought Goa, India was the most interesting.  That's when I learned that the Portuguese had been in India as well.

We started to walk around the perimeter of the fort trying to find the entrance and came across some cool views on the way.  On the other side of this wall we ran into some guy who said he was a guide, but that we needed to go back and enter on the other side. Never made it all the way around.

Inside the fort, looking down over top the white-washed walls.  Down in the center you can see the back of the church.  In front of it is a rebuilt stage showing where the auctions and punishment happened. All those windows on the perimeter walls are either huge cells for holding slaves or equally miserable quarters where the soldiers lived.

Canons!

Leaning out past the canon, there was this gorgeous inlet right below with a mangrove tree growing in it.

Dinner one night on the Island. 

On the other side of the idea, usually surrounded by water due to the high tide, is another fort.  Though not as big and certainly not as aesthetic, it was pretty cool none the less.  It was low tide, so we decided to hike out there and check it out.  This is the type of site that will probably be a pay-to-enter museum at some point, but right now, just like the most of the rest of Mozambique, it's just ruins waiting to be explored!

Getting closer.

Wildlife along the way.  Lots of pesky urchins.

Jerks, that's what these are.

Pretty, that's what these are.

The latter up to the fort is a litlte worn down, so we had to do osme rock climbing around the back to get up instead.

On top of the fort looking behind it at the cistern.  Locals come cross the temporary land bridge during low tide to wash their closes using the cisterns water.

Some local kids just hanging out on top of the fort.  More Island off in the distance, further out to sea.

Just like in Ibo, we hired a Dow to take us about into the ocean to visit a deserted island.  This is Adren, enjoying a hard wooden bench for just about 3 hours.

Deserted...

Except for this other couple...Still though, the island was incredible. We walked all around it, exploring its various corners in hopes of finding some treasure.  Sadly, no treasure, but it was still a good time.