Monday, December 17, 2012

Securing the Perimeter. And Beans.



Why are you still here?  Why isn’t this stupid job done yet?  There isn’t any power, why do we have to sit and wait for it to return. Why can’t you just come tomorrow instead?! Why won’t you let me leave my house, damnit!?  Why are you eating all my food?  Why must I cook for you too?  Why must you continually ask me to add more salt to an already over-salted dish? Why, why, WHY! 

I’ve got cabin fever, and I’m about two kilopascals away from cracking.  I’ve spent the last four days stuck within the confines of my house, unable to leave because there are two guys cutting and welding metal rebar on my front porch with the end goal of setting me up with a nice new set of security grates for my windows and doors.  They started on Friday.  That was also the first day Mozambican Culture gave me a little smack to the face before removing some of the contents of my wallet.  No, I didn’t get robbed; at least I don’t think I did (how ironic/cliché would that be though…the guys installing the security device end up ripping you off).  Turns out, if you hire someone to do work for you, and they are there during a meal, you need to provide them with food.  Usually, this wouldn’t be an issue, but it caught me totally off guard.  Not only do I not have much in my pantry (I just moved in!), but I have no idea how to cook what I do have.  

Fortunately for me, my amazing site-mate Anna taught me how to whip up a quick batch of fried rice the day before, so when the guys told me they were hungry and needed to feed them, I went to work.  I didn’t have some of the things I needed, so I decided to make a curry fried rice instead by substituting curry powder for soy sauce and ginger. Turned out to be half decent, and I think they liked it.  They took seconds, so I’m counting that one as a victory.  If only the next day had gone as well.

I should have taken it as a sign when Taje, my neighbor and colleague, stopped by early in the moring on day two to say something about the power.  I usually don’t understand what he’s saying to me, so I just nodded, slapped his hand and did the Mozambican handshake-thumb snap, smiled and repeated “Sim, sim!”  Turns out, he was trying to tell me that there wasn’t any power, but the guys who were working on my grates were still going to come.  Around 7:00 or 7:30, they showed up on their motorcycle dressed and ready to work.  They said something along the lines of, “Yeah, don’t worry, this happens in Montepuez a lot.  Either the power will come back on in five minutes, or it won’t come back on until tomorrow.  Or maybe it’ll come on in an hour or two.  Doesn’t matter, we have nothing better to do so we are going to hang around your house and wait.  Also, you need to feed us again.”

So we waited.  And we waited.  And then we waited some more.  We sat around all morning, waiting for the power to return.  First we waited outside.  Then we moved inside to my couches.  Then one of the guys took a nap on my couch which the other tried to decipher dated copies of the New Yorker.  He told me he didn’t understand what anything said, but he liked the ads.  It was grueling, and it was hot.  On the bright side though, this gave me a great opportunity to practice my Portuguese, and while we were sitting there waiting for what felt like an infinite number of house, we conversed as best we could.

When lunch time rolled around, I got to work.  I decided to be a bit adventurous that day and experiment with beans. This was actually gonna be my first time making beans.  Ever.  I had soaked them the night before, with the bright idea to try and follow a recipe I found in one of the various cook books/notepads laying around my house.  It sounded good to me, and I had most of the ingredients, so it seemed like a win-win situation.  Not quite.  I didn’t think that the finished product was actually that bad, but the Mozambicans were not happy.  “The beans need to be cooked more.” One said.  “It needs more salt.” Said the other.  “Why did you cook it together with the rice?” they both asked.  Because that’s what the recipe said to do dude, that’s why.  I wasn’t actually terrible, but they aren’t huge fans of spicy, and I guess they didn’t have a taste for cumin.  Either way, they told me that they wanted to teach me to make beans like a Mozambican, so I decided this sounded awesome and told them I was down like a bean-cooking clown.  They didn’t get it.  So instead I told them that this sounded like an amazing opportunity to gain a cultural culinary perspective from two members of the community that I will be spending the next two year of my life living with.  They didn’t understand that either.  So, I just told them yeah, let’s do it.  That worked.

We finished eating around 2pm, and they decided that after nearly seven hours of waiting, they were gonna call it a day.  Then they left.  Then, at 2:02pm, the power came back on.  Figures.  Didn’t matter though.  It seemed that I would finally have some time to leave my godforsaken house and run some errands, so I was happy.  I desperately needed to go to the market and restock on supplies.

I finished up washing the dishes and then got my bag ready to head up to meet Anna for some shopping.  About five minutes into my walk, it started to rain.  Hard rain.  I ducked under a random tin-roofed veranda for a little, hoping to wait out the storm.  I’d already waited 7 hours today, what was a little more.  It never stopped raining.  I would have just sucked it up and walked anyway, but I wasn’t even half a klick into my 4km trek to the market.  After about 25 minutes, I ran home to seek shelter in the dirty, metal shard scattered confines of my home.

The next day the guys showed up bright and early to start working again.  Nothing too eventful on Day 3, but Anna decided to join us for lunch.  We didn’t end up doing the bean thing as I forgot to soak them.  No problem, because the pasta I drowned in olive oil suited them just fine. 

Day 4 came and went with a bang.  Well, it was more like there was banging all throughout the day.  Banging on Metal bars, banging on pots and pans, banging our forks and knives on the table as we eagerly waited for our food to be served…  I was excited to learn about Mozambican bean-cooking.  It was interesting, but not as unique as I was hoping it to be.  Pretty standard stuff, except they didn’t want to soak the beans at all.  Instead, we started cooking them at 8am, and just let them boil for three or four hours.  We mixed in tomatoes, onions, peppers, and garlic before adding a ton of salt.  Rice was put in towards the end, and then a one point, one of the guys asked for a plastic bag that he then put into the pot, spreading it out over the bean-rice amalgamation.  Still not sure what it was supposed to do, but when he was sticking the thing in there, he told me it was to “Tampar.”  Meh.  Too bad tampar didn’t mean make things taste better, because even with the approximately 1 kilogram of salt that we added, the dish came out pretty bland. My beans were better.

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