The Chapa Information Post

Not sure if I’ve described what exactly a Chapa is yet, but if I haven’t, then here’s a short lesson on what they are, how they work, and how much they suck. 

Chapas are the official Mozambican method of travel when someone is looking to get from Point A to Point B.  There are other options to choose from (buses, trains, airplanes, taxi’s, etc.), but Chapas seem to be the preferred way of getting around if you don’t have a personal car.  They work a bit like a normal municipal bus system in the states would with pre-determined routes and a set price, but they are far more dangerous.  There’s a reason for that too. 

Manned by a Motorista (Driver) and Cobrador (I don’t know the English translation, but he is the one who takes the money as people get into and out of the van), Chapas are big (but not that big) ghetto-looking, flat-face vans a bit smaller in length and width than a typical sixteen-passenger van you see in the states.  In these vans though, the engine is located in a compartment below the space that is between the driver and shotgun seat (keep in mind that they drive on the other side of the road here, and thus the driver seat is on the other side).  Often, there is a seat on top of this compartment to make the space more comfortable for the unlucky person that has to sit there.  Behind the front row where the driver sits are four more under-padded benches – each with a fold-down seat on the end that folds-up so people can get in and out of the back “easily” – that provide just barely enough space for three people to sit uncomfortably in each row.  Because this is Mozambique though, they cram four people into each bench. 

But it doesn’t stop there.  There is still a little bit of space behind the driver and passenger seats, and as a result, there are typically a couple people sitting backwards and occupying those spaces as well.  But, if the Chapa is going less than 100km, it doesn’t stop there.  Even though the Cobrador is already having trouble closing the sliding door, he’ll typically try and squeeze one more people who will join him in spending the entire ride crammed in and standing as if they we’re imitating the shape of an upside-down capital letter “L.”  Keep in mind that this van also doesn’t really have much storage space, so if you have any sort of carry-on, it usually rides on your lap.  Now, if you’ve been doing the math, than that makes approximately 22-23 people – with luggage – packed into a van that is designed to hold 16 people.  The Chapa experience redefines any preconceived notion of what it means to be packed like Sardines. There is no such thing as a personal bubble when riding a Chapa.

Thus far, my record is 26 people in one Chapa (Ok, ok…two were kids sitting on the laps of adults, but I think that should still count!).  It was miserable, and when I get back, I promise never to complain about not having enough leg room on a bus, plane, or car in America ever again.